
By Lisa Shara Hall
From Daily News Links, 11/15/2007
In its 16th year, the annual ¡Salud! Auction raised $775,625 with its focus on premium Oregon Pinot Noirs.
Drawn by the only opportunity to purchase limited production wines from Oregon's top producers, guests from across the country contributed $172,395 for 168 cases at the tasting and big board auction. This event was held last Friday at Domaine Drouhin. Attendees were able to taste the special ¡Salud! Cuvees (the best barrel in the cellar) and bid on the spot. Large screens in each room kept bidders apprised of the totals.
Top two wineries were Beaux Freres and Ponzi, which both topped $2,100. They were closely followed by several wineries, including Soter, Penner Ash, Ken Wright, The Four Graces, Domaine Serene and ArborBrook. The average case price was in excess of $1,000.
A further $603,000 generated at the exciting live and silent auction at Portland's historic Governor Hotel, which was capped by an electrifying paddle raise appeal spurred by a $30,000 combined pledge from 100 independent vineyard owners in the Willamette Valley AVA. The opening from the vineyards was $30,000, which was matched by Bernard Lacroute of WillaKenzie Estate. His ex-wife Ronnie Lacroute, also from WillaKenzie, matched every paddle raise donation of $100 in the room. The crowd went wild.
The top auction lot went for $20,000. It was a week in Provence for two couples with wine tastings, a cooking class and other activities.
Co-chairs Danielle Andrus Montalieu of Soléna Cellars and Edwin Irish MD were excited at the outcome. "The heart and enthusiasm bidders showed speaks volumes for the quality and caliber of the wines," said Montalieu. "Our sense of community and commitment gives us the opportunity to support those without whom these wines would not be possible. And we have a great time doing it!"
Irish agreed, saying, "¡Salud! bears testament to the appreciation we all have for seasonal vineyard workers. As their need for healthcare continues to rise, we are particularly grateful for the generosity of ¡Salud! supporters. It's a profound statement."
¡Salud! provides healthcare outreach services for seasonal vineyard workers and their families who cannot qualify for health insurance plans. To fill this void, a dedicated group of Oregon vintners and volunteers associated with Tuality Healthcare Foundation created a bi-lingual service called ¡Salud!, the traditional Spanish toast "to your health."
Through ¡Salud!, seasonal workers receive health education, cholesterol and diabetes screenings, dental care, assistance with medical paperwork and more. Referrals are made for necessary medical aid beyond the financial means of most recipients, including quality prenatal care, hospitalizations and surgeries. Demand for ¡Salud! steadily increases, with over 3,300 individuals served in 2006 alone.
The 2008 auction will be held on November 7 and 8. For details, visit www.saludauction.org.
The participating wineries: Adelsheim, Amalie Robert, Antica Terra, ArborBrook, Archery Summit, Argyle, Beaux Frères, Bergström, Bethel Heights, Broadley, Chehalem, Cristom, Dobbes, Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Domaine Serene, Elk Cove, Erath, Four Graces, Gypsy Dancer, Hamacher, Ken Wright Cellars, King Estate, Lange Estate, Patricia Green Cellars, Patton Valley, Penner-Ash, Ponzi, R. Stuart & Co., Raptor Ridge, Rex Hill, Scott Paul, Shea Wine Cellars, Silvan Ridge, Soléna, Soter, St. Innocent, Stoller, Torii Mor, Westrey, WillaKenzie, Willamette Valley Vineyards and Witness Tree.
by Thad Westhusing of BeyondtheBottle.com
The next stop on http:// beyondthebottle.com/blog/2007/11/the_fog_of_oregon_wine_country.html my recent Oregon wine country tour was Soléna Cellars. I had enjoyed a bottle of Soléna 2005 Grande Cuvee Pinot Noir a couple of months back, therefore was eager to learn more about this outfit and try some of their other wines.
Soléna Cellars maintains a spacious tasting room a block south of Main Street in downtown Carlton. On the day I visited, wine was being poured by Lisa, who did a great job sharing stories and answering questions. Right off the bat, I was impressed with the fact that Soléna Cellars provided complimentary tastes of seven different wines. That makes things easy - no fees, no refunding - just a focus on tasting wine.
The tasting flight included an '06 Pinot Gris, '05 Quadalupe Pinot Noir, '05 Domaine Danielle Laurent Pinot Noir, '03 Wooldridge Creek Vineyard Merlot, '03 Wooldridge Creek Vineyard Zinfandel, and a '03 Del Rio Vineyard Syrah, poured in that order. It was an interesting mix of wines, but I opted to focus on the one Pinot Gris and the two Pinot Noirs. There was a chardonnay added to the mix, but frankly it tasted a bit off. After tasting the wines, I ended up purchasing a bottle of the '05 Guadalupe Pinot Noir.
It's worth calling out the detailed tasting notes Soléna Cellars offers with their wines. The sheet I was given on the '05 Guadalupe covers the characteristics of the vintage, vineyard, and vinification in such a way that you get a real feel for the who, what and where behind this wine. Their web site offers these same detailed notes on each of the wines in current release, with the exception of the '05 Guadalupe which has yet to be posted online.
I learned a lot from Lisa on this visit, including how the winery got it's start (founded by Laurent Montalieu, formerly of WillaKenzie, and Danielle Andrus Montalieu, formerly of Archery Summit), how it was named (Soléna, a combination of the French and Spanish words for sun and moon, is the name of Laurent and Danielle's daughter), and where the grapes are sourced (some from their estate vineyard, a wedding gift to each other).
I especially liked the story how Laurent and Danielle planted their 80 acre estate vineyard with six Pinot Noir clones that were received as wedding gifts. That is the first time I have ever heard of grape vines being part of a wedding registry, providing a truly unique story. I also found out that Soléna wine is actually made in McMinnville, a town about 7 miles away, at the Northwest Wine Company facility, a custom winemaking operation started by Laurent that serves about 25 clients.
One thing was becoming clear during my tour of Yamhill County wineries: these folks really care about terroir, maybe even more so than their neighbors to the north in Washington state. I might be over-generalizing here, but vineyard designated wines seem to be much more common in this neck of the woods. Granted, this focus is to be expected with estate wineries, which are more of the rule in Oregon than in Washington. Regardless, I really like the emphasis on place and all that it brings to understanding and enjoying a wine.
And it took some getting used to hearing folks in the tasting room not only talk about vineyards but soil types. Such was the case with Lisa at Soléna, who educated me on the characteristics of Willakenzie soil (well-drained shallow soil over siltstone) and several other types such as Jory and Dundee soils. It was both fascinating and fun to connect the soil to the wine in my glass. I had never experienced this type of connection in a winery's tasting room before.
Overall, this was a fantastic visit. Whatever Soléna Cellars lacks in setting, it more than makes up for in providing visitors with a deeper connection to their wines and Oregon pinot noir in general. I learned a lot about grape growing and wine making in the Willamette Valley on this visit, probably more than any other place during my tour. And it was refreshing to find a tasting room that didn't charge a fee. This focus on friendly service and useful learnings make the Soléna Cellars tasting room a must stop if you're in the Carlton area.
($25) Dark red. Smoky cherry and dark berry aromas, with complicating notes of succulent herbs and cola. Suave blackberry and cherry-cola flavors offer good depth and sweetness, with a bright mineral note adding energy. The sweet, persistent finish shows a brisk note of crystallized blackberry.
($35) Ruby-red. Explosive, seductively spicy aromas of raspberry and darker berries, with complicating notes of exotic Asian spice and fresh rose. Supple and deep, with impressive sweetness and plush texture to the red berry liqueur flavors. Fine, dusty tannins contribute structure. Gains weight with air but maintains brightness and focus, finishing with suggestions of rose pastille and excellent persistence.
($45) Dark violet. Powerful dark berry and kirsch scents are deepened by exotic notes of cured tobacco, espresso and dark chocolate. Ripe, liqueur-like blackberry and cassis flavors are wrapped in sweet mocha and candied licorice, picking up vibrant mineral tones with air. Offers an intriguing melange of bright berry and musky earth on the finish, which has impressive breadth and length.
By Cynthia Fenner
May 24, 2007
Original publication at: http://www.honoluluadvertiser.com
There is a lot of talk these days about global warming. Whatever the cause, there is definitely a warming trend affecting different aspects of our planet, including the wine industry. Lately I've found during tastings that wines of the Pacific Northwest rival and sometimes surpass the wines coming out of Napa. Although it's certainly a matter of personal preference, I enjoy wines that have roundness and complexity. In the wine business, we call this "physiological ripeness."
What does the term mean? When grapes are growing in a hot climate, they may get picked at a certain degree of sugar content (brix). This does not necessarily mean the grape is at its highest quality; the skins and seeds may still be bitter. These wines may have a high alcohol content as the sugar converts to alcohol during fermentation. To achieve physiological ripeness, the grape grower looks for a longer ripening time by searching for ideal growing conditions, such as cool nights, fog, elevation and perhaps a lake or nearby river or ocean to cool the grapes down so the skins, seeds and sugar content come into balance at the same time. These wines will be more complex and nuanced than a ripe alcoholic fruit bomb. So this may explain the abundance of wineries opening in Washington and Oregon.
I adore wines from Oregon and Washington. They can be less expensive than Napa wines, and the lower alcohol content goes better with dinner. Oregon wines are grown predominately near the coast, and Oregon is renowned for its pinot gris and its Burgundian style of pinot noir. Oregon has the fourth-highest production of wine in the states. But even with ideal soil and climate, growers have to watch closely as rainfall at harvest time can quickly plump the delicate pinot grapes up too much, watering down the juice and also making them susceptible to rot. When everything comes together, however, the wines can be magical. I look for pinot noir from Adlesheim, Domaine Serene, Domaine Coteau, Solena and Ken Wright. Some of my favorite Oregon pinot gris are Chehelam and King's Estate.
Washington is second to California in production. Grapes are grown farther inland, and Bordeaux varietals are famous here such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and also the Rhone varietal syrah. Some great wines to try from Washington are Delille Blanc and Estate Red, Matthews Cellars Claret, Andrew Will Merlots and Bordeaux Blends. There is a project in Washington called Long Shadows where the proprietor, Allen Shoup, teams up with famous winemakers around the world such as Michel Rolland, Agustin Huneeus and Philippe Melka, to produce some stunning wines. And if you are lucky enough to find any of the cult cabernet sauvignon by Quilceda Creek, pick it up. Wine critic Robert Parker, of the Wine Advocate, has rated this wine 100 points in the past two vintages, and the Wine Spectator ranked it No. 2 on the top 100 list this year; however, the availability is extremely limited.
What the future climate changes hold in store for winemakers and grape growers remain to be seen. Perhaps we will see wines coming from even farther north and more from coastal and mountain regions. But for now, we can truly appreciate the wines coming from the Pacific Northwest.
Come by the Neiman Marcus Epicure department, right outside Mariposa restaurant, from 3 to 5 p.m. Saturday for a free tasting of stellar wines from the Pacific Northwest, hosted by Cheryl Lynn Mattos of JMD Beverages.
Cynthia Fenner is a certified sommelier and the wine buyer for Neiman Marcus Epicure. Reach her at 948-7557.